We show you how to transform your bedroom wall using the right supplies and a few basic skills. So grab your DIY tools and get ready to follow our easy steps for gorgeous faux paneling. More Pretty Wood Wall Ideas The ideal material for the rails and stiles is medium-density fiberboard (MDF), an inexpensive 4x8-foot sheet you cut into strips. You’ll need a table saw to cut MDF and a pickup truck to haul it home. It’s heavy—about 70 pounds for a 3/4-inch-thick sheet—so you’ll need a helper to handle it. MDF sands to a smooth and uniform surface that takes paint well, it has none of the defects (such as knots) that can show up in natural-wood boards, and it flexes slightly to conform to minor wall irregularities. To do that: Decide on a size for your squares that leaves you a full (or near-full) square at all edges. Also, choose a square size that appears correctly scaled for the size of your wall. Like the grout lines between ceramic tiles, you should have either a rail centered between the floor and ceiling or two rails positioned at an equal distance on either side of the center. The same goes for placing the center stile(s) between the side walls. You might want to plot the rail and stile positions on graph paper or a computer program. Once you know where the rails and stiles will go, mark their positions on the wall. Make sure the rail marks are level, the stiles are plumb, and that they meet each other at 90 degrees (check with a framing square). If your layout doesn’t work, apply primer over the marks and try again. Finally, use a stud finder to mark the wall studs (in color different than used for the border/rail/stile positions), so you’ll know where to drive fasteners later. To ensure tight joints, it’s a good idea to initially cut each piece a fraction of an inch long so you can check its length on the wall and “sneak up” on the final cut with a series of fine cuts. Even then, leave the piece just a hair long after the final cut; this allows you to flex the piece outward to fit it into position, forcibly press it flat against the wall, and force its ends tight against adjoining pieces. Measure and mark odd angles (other than 90 degrees) using an adjustable bevel to transfer the angle from the wall to the piece you’re about to cut. If you have to drive a nail closer than an inch from an end or edge, predrill a hole for the nail to avoid splitting the wood or MDF. Next, attach a center stile. It might not fall on a stud, so attach it with construction adhesive only, using painter’s tape to temporarily hold the stile in position. After the construction adhesive cures, add the center rail on both sides. Attach the remaining rails and stiles, working out from the center.
