Ready to make the move to metal? We’ll teach you the metal stud framing techniques you need—and can easily manage if you have a few basic DIY skills, like measuring, cutting metal, and using a stud finder. Keep in mind: Most walls in remodeling projects are non-load-bearing, meaning they don’t help support the weight of the house; when building a load-bearing wall, make sure your metal studs are rated for that use. If you’re working with a helper, allow at least one hour for a simple eight-foot-long wall that runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Tack on extra time if you’re framing openings, such as doorways or windows, or building it parallel to the joists. Know Your Studs: You’ll find steel studs and runners in sizes similar to their wood counterparts. For example, what home-improvement stores call a steel 2x4 actually has a web depth of 3-½ inches, while a steel 2x6 has a web depth of 5-½ inches. The minimum flange size is 1-⅝ inch, and the maximum is 2 inches. You’ll notice a lip running along the flange of steel studs—this improves their rigidity. The flanges of the runner are usually angled slightly inward, enabling them to firmly grip the flanges of the studs. Does your wall run parallel to the joists? If so, you’ll need to add blocking: Cut wood pieces to fit the gaps between the runner and the closest joists, or use scrap pieces of steel runner, which you can easily fasten to the undersides of the joists. If you’re planning to attach ceiling drywall to the underside of a roof truss system, professionals recommend a resilient channel design that accommodates potential movement of the truss. Check with your steel-framing supplier for more information. Expert Tip: Cutting steel with hand tools isn’t difficult, but extended cutting sessions can be taxing for a weekend remodeler. To speed up the process, outfit your circular saw or miter saw with a steel-cutting abrasive blade. With this power tool, cutting will be quick and easy, but extremely noisy—and often accompanied by an impressive shower of sparks. Always wear eye and hearing protection, and take this step outside to avoid starting a fire. Watch where sparks land to ensure they don’t smolder on the dust within the saw. Another option: Rent a compound leverage channel shear to slice through studs and runner without deforming the steel’s profile. Know Your Screws: To join steel studs to the runner, you need a self-drilling screw that creates a pilot hole through both pieces before the threads engage. Look for a head design that has a large diameter (to spread the force that holds everything in place), a very low profile (so it doesn’t create a hump under the drywall), and a drive slot that’s easy to use. The fastener that fulfills all of the above is a No. 8x½-inch modified truss head self-drilling screw with Phillips drive. You can purchase these screws (or a very similar design) where you buy your framing steel. Expert Tip: If you’re undertaking a big project, consider investing in a punch lock stud crimper. This tool uses compound leverage to create a rectangular crimp that locks the metal stud and runner together, forming a strong bond in lieu of fasteners. The tool is easy to maneuver into tight quarters, and you’ll never have to worry about running out of screws.
